Hair Trends 8 December 2023

What does brassy hair mean?

The Wisteria Avenue Journal

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What Is Brassy Hair?

“Brassy” is one of those salon words that gets used a lot without much explanation. In short, brassy hair is hair that’s turned unwantedly warm — showing orange, yellow or copper tones where you wanted something cooler or more neutral. It’s most noticeable in blonde or lightened hair, and it’s one of the most common reasons people come back to the salon between colour appointments.

What Causes Brassy Hair?

Brassiness has a few causes. Sunlight, chlorine from swimming pools and harsh shampoos all contribute over time. But the main cause is the lightening process itself. When hair is lightened, the warm pigments naturally sitting underneath are exposed — and as any toner applied on top gradually fades, those warm tones start to show through. That’s why brassiness tends to creep in a few weeks after a colour appointment rather than straight away.

How to Spot Brassy Hair

It’s easy to identify. Look for warm orange or yellow tones coming through, especially in blonde or lightened sections. If your colour looks warmer or more “golden” than the cool, ashy or neutral result you left the salon with, that’s brassiness.

What You Can Do About It

The good news is brassiness is manageable. The usual tools are toning products — a salon toner, or purple and blue shampoos for upkeep at home. They work by depositing cool pigment that counteracts the warm tones, bringing the colour back toward the cool or neutral shade you wanted. To be clear, they don’t restore anything “natural” — they neutralise unwanted warmth so the intended colour shows properly again.

Toners and Purple Shampoo — the Short Version

A toner is a professional product that neutralises unwanted undertones by depositing pigment that offsets warmth. It’s tailored to your shade and gives the most controlled result — our post on what a toner is explains it fully, and do I need to book a toner? covers when it’s worth doing.

Purple shampoo is the at-home version of the same idea — the violet pigment counteracts yellow tones to keep blonde looking cool between appointments. It’s good for maintenance, but it’s gentler than a salon toner and won’t fix significant brassiness on its own. Our post on what purple shampoo actually does gives the honest picture, including how easy it is to overuse.

When Toner and Purple Shampoo Aren’t Enough

Sometimes brassiness is too stubborn for toning alone — often when colour has built up over time or a previous lightening process left a lot of warmth exposed. In that case it’s worth seeing a professional. A colourist can assess what’s actually going on and, if needed, carry out a proper colour correction to put it right rather than just masking it.

Brassiness is normal and fixable — it’s just part of how lightened hair behaves over time. Understanding why hair colour fades helps you stay ahead of it. If your colour has gone warmer than you’d like, get in touch and we’ll talk through the right fix for your hair.

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